How pig scraps discarded by US soldiers transformed a southerner’s love of BBQ into a Filipino ‘Soul Food’ Addiction
A new book from the gospel of pork…
Hello, my name is Todd and I’m a pork addict.
And if you were born and raised in the south like me, then chances are your spiritual indoctrination began at birth. Not religion mind you - no sir, I’m proselytizing about the type of BBQ you’d end up worshiping eternally; essential for one’s everlasting soul. I’m not preaching to those with backwards beef beliefs constructed west of the Appalachian range, nope we’re simply talking whole hog pork. And while it may be mustard, tomato or vinegar constructed, your choice of sauce can tell me where you’re from, provide a hint of your accent and perhaps which college team you cheer for; each has its place in the BBQ lover’s world. But friends, praise be for I have seen the light! Allow me to introduce my new favorite pork dish, the Philippines beloved Sisig. Blasphemy you say?! Now before you start hemming and hawing about tradition or Cheeto Jesus hear me out. There’s more that connects us than divides us on this one, ok?
“Sisig is perfectly positioned to win the hearts and minds of the world”
History – Sisig’s story has a few characteristics in common with southern BBQ. Whereas slaves in the US were forced to eat animal parts discarded by wealthy plantation owners, in the Philippines the impoverished would collect the discarded pig heads that American GI’s from Clark Air Force Base didn’t want. Ironically, the term ‘Sisig’ traditionally referred to a vegetarian style dish; in Tagalog it means “to snack on something sour” and referenced a type of salad comprising unripe fruits that were enjoyed with a salty, citrus dressing. It wasn’t until the 1970’s when the ‘Sisig Queen’, Lucia Cunanan came up with the dish we recognize today by incorporating the unwanted pork parts.
Ingredients – The dish incorporates parts of the pig that most would turn their noses up to, pun intended. Ears, jowl and snouts are most common as well as crispy pork skin and even chicken livers. For those non-pork lovers, the Philippines has more than 20 variations of the iconic dish; from seafood and chicken to python and frog. Sometimes a cook will use mayonnaise as a stand-in for the more traditional pig brains as a creamy addition. Chiles, garlic and red onion are necessities as well as the addition of fish sauce and the ubiquitous ‘Maggi’ seasoning.
Method - The dish is easy to create though it does require time. The pork pieces are marinated and then braised until tender and cooled. Next, they’re grilled for smokiness and cooled again before dicing. Finally, they are sauteed with garlic, onion and seasonings until crispy and chewy. Before serving, a raw egg is broken on top to continue cooking as it arrives on a scorching hot plate sputtering, sizzling and popping. Fresh squeezed calamansi or lime ties it all together.
Enjoying – Much like BBQ and its culinary cousins, coleslaw, collard greens and corned bread, garlic or coconut rice should accompany Sisig along with plenty of ice-cold beers to complete the meal. Glorious! Can I get an AMEN!?